Vittobha temple- Mattancherry,Kochi

The Vittobha temple in Mattancherry, Kochi is famous for its unique form of worship offered to the deity in the form of singing Bhajans. I stayed bang opposite to this temple during my early child hood and grew up right under the gaze of Lord Vittobha and the deity here holds a special place in my mind. Vittobha is none other than Krishna, is called thus by the people of Maharashtra as the one who is standing on eet or veet meaning brick. See my earlier post on Lord Vittobha of Pandarpur. The deity in Kochi is similar to the one that is in Pandarpur. Here also he is standing with his hands on his hips as if waiting for his bhakta (devotee). There is no separate shrine for his consort Rukumai as she resides on his chest in the form of a pendant . A recent addition is a small shrine dedicated to Goddess Annapoorna which is behind the Vittobha temple.

When I was a little girl, I have spent most of my time in this temple as the road separating my house and the temple was only about 15 feet wide. It was as if moving from one room to the other. The temple is at present run very well by a young and energetic group who frequent the temple regularly to see the daily upkeep and needs of the temple. The temple was recently renovated and it looks grand with its simplicity intact. The temple becomes a buzz of activity every evening as young and old come together and chant devotional songs called as Abhangs in praise of God. Abhangs are beautiful invocations to the Lord created by the saints like Sant Tukaram, Namdev, Gnandev etc. This bhajans are usually sung in groups and it is nice to watch, listen and sway to the rhythm of the same. This temple provides a platform for any body who desires to worship the God with the bhajans. An excellent example of camaraderie is visible here among the devotees who throng the temple to worship him in the evenings.

The idol here was brought here by the late Sri Ambu Baliga during one of his visits to Pandarpur and he installed it in Kochi. When the temple was opened for all the Hindus which was frequented only by chaste brahmins, it caused resentment and the temple remained neglected for about 7-8 years. After wards again the temple was opened up and worship resumed again, and it has become a huge movement today as this temple attracts thousands of devotees during the Sapthaham festival which takes place during the month of July. Sapthaham festival starts in the month of Aashada on Siddha Panchami day.

On the first day of the Saptham a huge lamp is lit in front of the deity and it glows for about 7 days and the temple remains open round the clock. Devotees keep singing the Bhajans with accompaniment of cymbals, harmonium and Tabla, with out stopping the cymbals even for a second. The devotees while singing do get totally absorbed in it that they sing and dance around the lamp. The devotees take turn and see that the sapthaham is conducted smoothly. On the seventh day a procession (shoba yatra) of devotees singing bhajans, carrying fruits and flowers march up to the Venkatachalapathy temple near by and returns to the Vittobha temple. I remember there used to be a devotee who used to do sayana pradikshinam (prostrating and rolling continuously on the ground) all the way to the other temple.

A temporary mandap is raised in front of the temple during the sapthaham and food is provided to all the devotees on the day saptham ends. Many stalwarts from the Hindustani music and Bhajan singers from different parts of India offer their worship here during the saptham season. They enthrall the devotees with their singing and this small temple gets thronged for the same. This Bhakti cult i.e singing and worshipping God has become a large crowd puller now. The temple is built in a simple style with attention being given to accommodate as many devotees as possible inside.

This temple has completed 100 years (1909) and a sahashra kalasha abhishekam was conducted as part of the centenary celebrations.

How to reach
The nearest railway station is Ernakulam south Junction which is 10 Kms from Mattancherry.
Nearest airport is Nedumbassery.
Private buses ply from Ernakulam to Mattancherry
Budget and luxury hotels are available in Ernakulam town itself

For a treat of Abhang listen to this Lata Mangeshkar's Melodious invocation